A Brazil Guide: Belo Horizonte

Belo Horizonte & Surrounding Areas 🇧🇷

Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais, is a hidden gem often overshadowed by Brazil’s more famous cities, but it’s a cultural and culinary powerhouse with a laid-back charm. Known as the "bar capital" of Brazil, it’s a city where you can immerse yourself in local traditions, savor authentic Mineiro cuisine, and explore stunning architecture and natural beauty. Here are some highlights for your visit:

• Discover the Pampulha Modern Ensemble:
  A UNESCO World Heritage site, this architectural complex designed by the renowned Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer is a must-see. Highlights include the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, with its iconic curved lines and outdoor mosaics, and the Pampulha Art Museum, surrounded by gardens designed by landscape artist Burle Marx (the same designer behind Rio’s Copacabana promenade). Stroll around the Pampulha Lagoon at night to see the lights reflecting on the water—a perfect romantic outing to channel some "Amor Cummings" vibes.

• Immerse Yourself in Culture at Praça da Liberdade:
  This beautiful square is the heart of the Liberdade Cultural Circuit, the largest cultural complex in Brazil. Explore museums like the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, which hosts exhibitions (over 2.5 million visitors have attended since 2006) and features a theater with dance and music performances. The square is surrounded by lush trees and historic buildings, making it a great spot for a leisurely walk or a coffee break at one of the nearby cafés.

• Savor Mineiro Cuisine at Mercado Central:
  You must visit and dive into the food scene at the Mercado Central, one of Brazil’s best markets that was visited and featured by Anthony Bourdain in his show, Parts Unknown. Sample local delicacies like pão de queijo (cheese bread), feijoada (a hearty bean and meat stew), and coxinha (battered and fried meat snacks). Don’t miss the bulk chocolate and fruit shops for treats like chocolate-covered açaí. Pair your snacks with a cachaça (a Brazilian spirit) from one of the specialized stalls—perfect for toasting to our wedding!

• Explore Nature at Mangabeiras Park:
  Nestled at the foot of the Serra do Curral mountains, this urban park offers trails through the Atlantic Forest where you can spot monkeys, toucans, and butterflies. It’s a great escape from the city with breathtaking views of Belo Horizonte from its lookouts. If you’re traveling with kids, the Vale dos Cristais area has play spaces and interactive learning about the ecosystem.

Day Trips from Belo Horizonte:

• Inhotim (1 hour away): This massive open-air contemporary art museum and botanical garden is a must-visit. Spanning 5,000 acres, it features interactive exhibits, sculptures, and lush landscapes. You could spend a full day—or even a week—exploring its color-coded paths and still not see everything.

• Ouro Preto (2 hours away): A UNESCO World Heritage site, this historic gold-mining town is known for its 17th-century Baroque churches like São Francisco de Assis and Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar, often adorned with gold interiors. Pair it with a visit to Inhotim for a multi-day excursion. Ouro Preto was one of the most impressionable cities I’ve visited in Brazil due to its deep rooted Brazilian and Portuguese history. Ouro Preto hosts over 20 churches with gold lined interior and is the gold rush city of South America. I would suggest spending at least one night in this city if you visit.

• Congonhas (1.5 hours away): Visit the Twelve Prophets, 18th-century soapstone sculptures by Aleijadinho, and the Santuário do Bom Jesus do Matosinhos, a stunning basilica. Guided tours often include lunch at a local restaurant.

Experience Local Nightlife:
Belo Horizonte is famous for its bohemian culture. Head to the Savassi neighborhood for lively bars. Enjoy a caipirinha (Brazil’s signature cocktail made with cachaça, lime, and sugar) and mingle with locals. Tatu Bola is among my favorite places to spend an evening on the weekend.

Safety Tips:
Belo Horizonte is generally safe for tourists, but stay in well-lit, busy areas at night, avoid flashing valuables, and use reputable transportation like Uber or official taxis (Uber preferred). Leave valuables and jewelry at home in the US, almost everywhere accepts credit cards, you shouldn’t need cash for anything unless you intend to tip in cash (10% customary in Brazil for solid service but most restaurants will include a 10% service charge to your bill). Key safety tip for anywhere in Brazil (or the world, for that matter), if you’re the only one on the street when it’s dark, you should get off of it.

Famous Restaurants of Belo Horizonte

Belo Horizonte is well known for its food and you will be overwhelmed with options. Below are some of the more recognized restaurants with Xapuri, Café com Letras, and Redendor at the top of the list for some of my favorites. Here is a Google Maps list of some of my favorite eating spots around Belo Horizonte that I’ve been constructing since 2021.

• Xapuri:
  Nestled in a rustic, open-air setting, Xapuri is a beloved spot for authentic Mineiro cuisine. Run by the charismatic 75-year-old chef Dona Nelsa, it serves generous portions of traditional dishes like tutu à mineira (bean puree with pork and collard greens) and frango jeca (chicken with a rich sauce). The warm atmosphere and live music make it ideal for a pre-wedding celebration. Expect to share plates—perfect for toasting to "Amor Cummings"! (Note: Reservations recommended, especially on weekends.)

• Glouton:
  Led by acclaimed chef Leo Paixão, Glouton blends Mineiro ingredients with international flair, offering a seasonal tasting menu that’s a culinary journey. Highlights include Minas cheese pastille with honey and piglet with crispy farofa. The cozy garden setting and exposed brick walls add elegance, making it a special choice for a sophisticated night out. (Book in advance due to popularity.)

• Mercado Central (Bar do Jùlio):
  This bustling indoor market is a foodie paradise with over 400 stalls. Head to Bar do Jùlio for a classic fígado com jiló (beef liver with bitter eggplant), a Belo Horizonte staple. It’s casual, affordable, and perfect for sampling local flavors like pão de queijo (cheese bread) and cachaça. Stand and eat with the locals for an authentic experience—ideal for a quick bite before exploring the city.

• A Pão de Queijeria (Savassi):
  Famous for the best pão de queijo in Brazil, this spot in the trendy Savassi neighborhood offers outdoor seating to watch the hip crowd go by. Enjoy cheese bread sandwiches or breakfast platters, paired with excellent coffee. It’s a light, delicious option for a morning or afternoon break during your visit.

• Café com Letras:
  A unique bookstore-turned-restaurant in Savassi, this place combines literature with dining. Expect a pan-Brazilian menu with dishes like mushroom crepes and salmon risotto, plus a nightly DJ and Gaudi-esque mosaics. The friendly staff and vibrant vibe make it great for a casual yet stylish meal.

• Redentor:
  Located in the heart of Savassi, Redentor is a modern bar and restaurant known for its creative Brazilian dishes and lively atmosphere. Favorites include bolinho de mandioca com carne seca (cassava fritters with dried beef) and caldo de feijão (bean broth), perfect for sharing. Pair your meal with a caipirinha made with local cachaça, and enjoy the outdoor seating to soak in the neighborhood’s energy. It’s a great spot to unwind after a day of exploring Belo Horizonte.